Tsitsikamma scuba diving takes you into one of the oldest marine protected areas in Africa. The Tsitsikamma coast, now part of the Garden Route National Park, was declared a marine reserve in 1964. Indigenous forest runs right down to steep sandstone cliffs, rivers cut deep gorges to the sea, and the famous Otter Trail hiking route follows the shoreline for five days.
Decades of protection show underwater. Reef fish here are bigger, more numerous and less shy than on fished coastlines, and the rocks are covered in sponges, sea fans, soft corals and anemones. It feels wilder than the sheltered bays to the west, and it rewards divers who are ready for open-ocean conditions.
Storms River Mouth
Most diving and snorkelling here starts from the rest camp at Storms River Mouth, where the river meets the sea beneath a suspension bridge. A guided underwater trail has long been offered in a sheltered gully near the camp, for both snorkellers and scuba divers, and it is a good way to see the reserve if the swell allows. Boat dives to offshore reefs depend on conditions and on what local operators are running at the time.
What you will see
Reef fish in numbers
Protected species such as red roman, along with shoals of other reef fish, often come close to divers.
Invertebrate walls
Sponges, sea fans, soft corals, feather stars and anemones cover the gullies and overhangs.
Catsharks and rays
Pyjama catsharks and other small sharks rest in crevices; rays cross the sandy patches.
Above the water
Dolphins and, in winter and spring, whales pass along the coast. Cape clawless otters live along the shore.
Conditions and upwelling
This is an exposed coast that faces the open Indian Ocean, so swell is the main limit on diving. Calm, settled days are the ones to wait for. In summer, easterly winds can cause upwelling, bringing very cold water to the surface: temperatures can drop from around 20 °C to near 10 °C within a day. Pack for both, as our South Africa water temperature guide explains. Autumn is often the most settled season; see the best time to dive in South Africa for the full picture.
Rules and permits
You will pay a park conservation fee to enter the national park, and scuba diving inside marine protected areas needs a recreational permit. Large parts of the reserve are no-take, so nothing may be collected. Dive with an operator who knows the reserve, follow the rangers' rules, and keep off the reef. Our South Africa dive travel safety page covers permits, insurance and other practical points.
Above the water
Tsitsikamma is worth visiting even on days when the sea is too rough to dive. Short walking trails from Storms River Mouth lead through the forest to the suspension bridge and along the cliffs, and the waterfall trail follows the first part of the Otter Trail. Kayak and lilo trips go up the Storms River gorge when the water is calm. Inland, the forests are home to huge old yellowwood trees, and the area is known for adventure activities such as canopy tours and one of the world's highest bungee jumps, from the Bloukrans Bridge. A rough-sea day spent on land is often followed by a calmer day for diving.
Who it suits
The guided trail can suit newer divers on a calm day. Offshore and exposed sites are better for divers with some cold-water and swell experience. If you are still learning, consider training somewhere more sheltered first, such as Mossel Bay, and then visiting Tsitsikamma on the same road trip.
Getting there
Storms River Mouth is off the N2, roughly two hours west of Gqeberha. Combine it with the reefs of Gqeberha and Algoa Bay to the east, or with Knysna and Mossel Bay to the west.
Questions divers ask
Can you scuba dive at Storms River Mouth?
Yes. A guided snorkel and scuba trail has long run from the rest camp, and some operators offer boat dives when the swell allows.
Why is the water so cold in summer?
Easterly winds can cause upwelling, which brings cold deep water to the surface and can drop temperatures by about 10 °C.
Do I need a permit?
Scuba diving in a marine protected area needs a recreational permit, and you pay the national park's conservation fee to enter.
